After the news about the “strongest typhoon of the decade” (Typhoon Hagibis) coming to Japan, I had to change my plans and escape to the nearest and most accessible mountains. Primarily because it was going to reach land in three days very near to my location.
I had found refuge at a small Michi no Eki (Road Station) in the middle of the mountains of Yamakita. These places have rest areas where you can stay inside, with bathrooms and vending machines. This particular one was a narrow space of about 10 sq. meters.
Although I was safe, the night wasn’t the finest. With any tiny movement, the light sensor of the room would turn everything on and woke me up. Also, as a Michi no Eki, it was a spot for tired drivers to stop, use the bathroom and get something to drink from the vending machines.
[2019-10-11]
I’m not sure how many people entered that small room where I was trying to sleep, but I woke up restless. The positive aspect: I and all my stuff were dry.
I ate some bread and a hot coffee from the vending machine; I packed everything and was ready to leave.
The rain had stopped at last around 6:47 a.m. I quickly got out and went to the bigger Michi no Eki: Fujioyama, which was about 11.4 km away.
The skies were still pretty dark. At any moment, I could get soaked. So, I sped up my pace. It was a very diverse route, with downhills, uphills, and some flat parts. But for the last 3km, I was only going up.
I was 20 minutes away when I started to feel a bit dizzy. I didn’t know if it was the lack of air, the lack of food, or the lack of hope. But I had to stop and stand up for a moment.
In the middle of an empty road surrounded by rice fields, I was trying not to faint.
I drank a lot of water and ate a pack of Calorie Mate: My Osaka friend had shown me these calorie bars. That type of food can help you in similar situations; also, they are delicious – so I always had some in my backpack.
I walked while recovering my energy; suddenly, little drops started to fall. With all my strength, I got on my bike and pedaled fast the last kilometer until the Road Station.
One hour after leaving Yamakita, I arrived soaked – but from sweat. Michi no Eki Fujioyama was huge (at least, compared to the previous one). There were a lot of cars and long trucks parked and a canopy connected the parking lot with restroom facilities. I left my bike under the roof and entered the bathroom to change my clothes.
When I got out, a man got interested in my journey (he had seen my bike with all the packing). I tried to talk with him in Japanese, but he insisted that he wanted to practice his English. I don’t know which one was the worst, but we succeeded in having a conversation.
This Michi no Eki was located in the city of Gotenba, at the base of Fuji itself, but I only saw clouds wherever I looked.
It seemed that all Michi no Eki were composed of the same areas: a restaurant and a market, where you can taste and buy things from the region; and a rest area, with vending machines and restrooms. But this was like ten times bigger than where I slept the previous day.
Also, I noticed I was getting enough attention from the locals – three more people asked about me and my journey.
I was in the countryside of Japan, and everyone was incredibly kind. They listened to me with a lot of patience, and of course, everyone said “nihongo jouzu” (you are good at Japanese) – but I knew any person would say that with just an “Arigatō” (Thank you).
Furthermore, a woman invited me to her family’s farm in Hiroshima Prefecture. She was insistent and intended to call her parents, but I, unfortunately, had to reject the invitation because the place was far away from my route. It would have been a fascinating experience, but it was so deep in the mountains that it would delay me many days.
Later, for lunch, I tasted something different. But I am still not sure what was all from the tray. Most of it was pretty tasty; only a cold white paste wasn’t of my preference.
(After some research, I found out that the unknown white dish is called ‘Tororo’ and it’s made with grated yam – commonly, it’s eaten along with the rice).
In Michi no Eki Restaurants you can have whole sets like this one for about 800 yen (~ 8usd).
I spent the afternoon talking with my family and friends, reassuring my mom that I was safe. Meanwhile, screens on the station showed news about the incoming Category 5 super typhoon; and its destruction passing over Guam and the Mariana Islands.
Before the market and restaurant closed at 5 p.m., I bought a sandwich and a pack of Dango for the night. Dango are rice balls covered with sweet sauce – pretty popular in anime; I had always wanted to try them.
In the rest area were plenty of vending machines: for bottled beverages, fresh coffee and chocolate, and some bakery sweets. I needed nothing more.
It had been raining all day, so there was nothing else to do around; I sat at a table inside for the rest of the night. I wasn’t the only one there – two other men were passing the night there too. And many others were outside in their cars and trucks.
Later, I chose a corner, where I tugged inside my sleeping bag. It was great that the restrooms were apart from the room, so there was no disturbance over the night.
[2019-10-12]
I woke up early to discover a still unstoppable rain.
And before I finished some bread and coffee for breakfast, a group of around twenty people filled the room and had a short meeting under the roof. They looked like a rescue team. I wasn’t sure, but they were planning their day; I guessed, preparing to assist anyone in need.
The typhoon was supposed to hit the country that evening, so I was a bit scared. But thankfully, it had slowed down a lot, and in the middle of the mountains would be less dangerous.
The day wasn’t much different than the previous. I talked with locals, had something different for lunch, and spent most of the time planning a new route for the following days – Due to the delay, I had to cut a big loop I had planned to ride around Mount Fuji, visiting five famous lakes and sleeping around.
The evening came, and the wind got stronger. The rest area was now crowded. A guy who was hitchhiking was also there since the previous day, like me. But most people were drivers who just had to wait to return home. A friendly old man was curious about my journey, and we conversed for a while.
Generally, it’s an advantage having the restrooms outside the rest area. But with that amount of rain and wind, I would have preferred the opposite. The typhoon was near, and the wind was crazy, gusting in every direction, with things flying around. I went and returned unharmed but a bit wet.
I was exhausted, so I crawled to my corner and rested for a while. Some hours later, an earthquake woke me up; I saw everyone so calm that I went back to sleep, knowing there was no danger.
At around 2 a.m., the kind old man joyfully woke me, announcing the passing of the typhoon and that we were safe now.
Typhoon Hagibis had made landfall on the Izu Peninsula (around 50km from where I was) as a Category 2-equivalent typhoon. It continued up north, over Chiba Prefecture (west of Tokyo).
[2019-10-13]
I slept again for a couple of hours, having rested just enough.
To conclude, I woke up to his fantastic view of Mount Fuji.
I never imagined being so close to it. It looked like nothing had happened the last days – clear blue skies. I couldn’t believe it. It was extraordinary to have this opportunity.
And, at last, I was able to resume my journey.
Don‘t hesitate to ask any questions in the comments below.
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